Catwalk photo shoot - 1

The Hair

The hair for shoot one has been inspired by the Chanel ready to wear AW14/15 show which was featured in a the historic Grand Palais in Paris that was set up to look up like a supermarket. Chanel though a huge fashion house still is creative and really pushes the surrealism that they can create in their catwalk shows. I felt that this hair would be great for my catwalk inspired shoot because I liked the different textures that I would be able to create with the hair; a unique pony tail with a range of materials in that I would purchase from fabric shops. The materials in the hair colour wise was a colourful range but for me I want to look at using colours that really are classic to the brand so blues and golds. I also want to plait the hair just to add some more dimension to it much like the crimping from the show above. 

The Makeup 

The makeup for this shoot has been inspired by a range of previous shows which I think can be developed into a new makeup look. For this shoot I want to use a lot of blue because from my previous posts I have noticed a clear connection between the tone and Chanel itself. From the images I've used from the Ready to wear SS15 and the Ready to wear SS16 shows which both feature heavy eye makeup with perfect skin.  I'm gonna use a highlight on top of the blue just to add more of a metallic finish to the eye which I think will look really great on camera and make the dimension's of the blue shades really stand out. The blue shading's will be from my Urban Decay Vice Palette and my La Roc summer tones palette. 

The skin itself will be a even coverage that covers imperfections much like the perfect skin of the models for the catwalk. The cheeks I wanted to accentuate the cheekbones adding a bit of colouring like the Chanel couture AW13/14 show (the bottom photo). I believe that the more extreme cheeks will really work with my already youthful look adding another pop of colour to look I will be using the colouring of a Illamasqua cream blusher in Libido which is a orangey finish and think would look great on my model who I've already picked.

The outfit 

The main piece of clothing that I shall be definitely feature in my shoot is this dress from the clothing brand TBA. The pom pom detailing of this dress I feel would look awesome in my catwalk shoot as I feel like the dress look's expensive and has resemblance's of Chanel fashion with the breast pocket detailing and the zip down the middle which in my mind resembles a Chanel jacket. The pom pom detailing also adds a really modern and playful feel to the outfit which I feel will match the makeup choices. 

Matte. glossy. Satin lips

Health and Safety

• Clean washed hands must always be the first thing before touching client
• Hair is tied back at all times
• Model should be wearing a apron or protected clothing
• Must check whether there is any contraindications such as sickness or infection

The choice of lipstick can reflect our personalities; certain colours suit different skin tones more or can make someone look harsh. Choosing the right lipstick is a real task. In our lesson with Fenella working with a partner we had to create some lip looks that would also really suit our models complexions. 

A nude lip - My models lips were a natural dark pink so just to intensify the colour slightly more I used a little bit of Mac Whirl and blended it into the lip to create a more natural block natural lip colouring. 

A Red Lip- Using red lip mix and a blue Illamasqua lip gloss I created this colour; I added blue because I felt like it would really suit my models skin tone which I think it has. The colour is a subtle red and not too heavy and intense red.

A glossy Red Lip- Adding shiny mixing medium created the glossy red lip; good for adding some extra glamour for the look. The mixing medium worked great but any clear lipgloss would still achieve desired look.

A dark Lip- using two dark shades from my Kryolan lip rouge mini palette I created this dark current look.

Catwalk inspired lips- The last lips that I created where inspired by smudged lips that had graced the catwalks the lipstick was smudged using my finger for the desired look. A fun look to create with the luxury look from the gold illamasqua liquid gold 

Beach Hair

Health and Safety

• Clean washed hands must always be the first thing before touching client
• Hair is tied back at all times
• Model should be wearing a apron or protected clothing
• Must check whether there is any contraindications such as sickness or infection

Equipement

• Brush
• salt spray
• hair dryer with diffuser head on
• Curling wand
• straighteners  

Look one is a salted spray textured look; Spray the hair all over with the spray. Next take strands of the hair and twist it into a coil in the hair like in the photo. Once the hair is rolled take some straighteners and press down on the hair ensuring all the hair is covered; leave hair to cool. Once all the head is done tousle the curls out with your fingers. 

This look is extremely simple; Spray the head all over with the salt spray and then dry the head with a hair dryer with a diffuser head in place, the result will be the hair in the photo next to this, the look is very textured and great for films and television for a beach day look. 

Curly hair

Salt spray the hair again and then using a curling wand placed upside down in its placement twist the hair around the wand and leave for 5/8 seconds. Leave out the ends of the hair so the look isn't to curly. At the end to relax the hair even more tousle the curls with your hands. 

Eye shapes and Eyeliner

Health and Safety

• Clean washed hands must always be the first thing before touching client
• Hair is tied back at all times
• Model should be wearing a apron or protected clothing
• Must check whether there is any contraindications such as sickness or infection

Equipment needed

• A thin eyeliner brush
• Black Eyeliner (I used mac black black)

In this class we were looking at different types of eyeliner looks that we were allowed to explore into. The original base we all had to start from was a thin just about the eyelash eyeliner mark which was meant to look simple, even and more natural. For me eyeliner has been a development especially securing a neat finish to the final look which I think has been achieved with my hand. The second was an adapted look from the thin line to more of an evening look with winged eyeliner sides. Using a brush to apply the eyeliner I feel creates a much nicer finish and allows for the eyeliner to be applied with more application which I've been perfecting more in my second year. The third and final adaptation was one that we would be inspired by from a range of imagery at the front of the class. The image that I went for was one in which I'd never thought of doing involving blending the eyeliner out onto the socket of the eye and adding metallic pigment to finish of the creation. I really like the final image because it really shows the curve in which I followed for the shaping on the eyelid. I also felt that the colours really suited a late winter feel with the coppering flaring out against the black of the liner structured brows and rest of my models look. 

Matte & Dewy skin

In this lesson we focused on creating Matte and Dewy skin, vital techniques that we need to perfect for shoots and in our work. The perfect base for any look.

Health and Safety

• Clean washed hands must always be the first thing before touching client
• Hair is tied back at all times
• Model should be wearing a apron or protected clothing
• Must check whether there is any contraindications such as sickness or infection

Products Needed

• Strobe Cream- Mac
• Face and body foundation- Mac
• Mist & fix - Makeup forever 
• Set powder - Mac
• Makeup Fixing mist - Pixi
• Pro long wear Concealer-Mac 

• Prep the skin by removing any past traces of makeup; use cleanser, toner and finish moisturising the face. Make sure there are no contradiction's for the model such as allergies or irritation
• Apply foundation onto moisturised skin that has been lightly sprayed with the Pixi fixing spray as its a great light primer and prolongs makeup wear length.
• Using a stippling brush I blended the foundation into the face; going for a more natural coverage.
• Apply some concealer underneath the eyes to brighten the skin and create more of a covered base.
• With the mac set powder apply powder to the skin using a powder puff dabbing the skin.
• Finish of with some setting spray.

Like matte lips matte skin is extremely fashionable and can be seen in many catwalk and advertising campaigns. The skin is evenly covered and shows no signs of rush or daily stress or makeup wear off which having a slight shine to it can makeup look worn or even sweaty. Dewy skin though is a completely different thing 

Work Val Garland did for Erdem featuring beautiful matte skin that looked striking with the copper tobacco yes and bronzing on cheeks. Featured for London Fashion week.
http://www.harpersbazaar.co.uk/beauty/beauty-shows-trends/news/g35521/london-fashion-week-s-s16-beauty-round-up/?slide=6


The art of dewy skin is something we have covered a lot in lessons and now I feel i've perfected this was the first class of the term that we really looked into the technique and products for both looks but I had previously on my previous makeup term for beauty is boring looked into dewy skin as its definitely a very fashionable look.

Prep the skin by removing any past traces of makeup; use cleanser, toner and finish moisturising the face. Make sure there are no contradiction's for the model such as allergies or irritation

Using the strobe cream by Mac apply a thin layer onto cheek bones and above brow bone but to add a layer to create a perfect dewy look

Mixing the right foundation colours mix a small amount of strobe cream into foundation (I used face and body) 

Apply the foundation with a stippling brush which is great for making a flawless smooth base.

Depending on coverage more layers of face and body can be added and mixed into skin.

Apply Concealer under eye and incase of any redness for a more even base.

Don't set with powder instead use a bit of highlight on cheek bones and upper lip to really make the skin stand out 

A slightly darker foundation can be added to the concave parts of the face such as the hollows of the cheeks to create more of a sculpted dewy look.

More work by Val Garland for London fashion week this time seen on the models for Julien Macdonald the skin here is very dewy and flawless with a dramatic eye that oozes sex and slick back hair that looks wet. On Harpers Bazaar the writer of the article describes the "Imagine a bond girl coming out of the sea and pulling her hair back off of her face" Exactly what I imagined looking at the images for this show, effortless 



Both images are from Harpers Bazaar.

Photography

Lenses

In this lesson we were looking at different types of lenses that could be explored further for our own shoots for the project. We looked at the lenses 60mm and 100mm; these lenses produce extremely high standard detailing in the photos and are great for close up shoots. The numbers on each lense depend on the focal point and lense type. The 100mm lesson has a more extreme close up compared to the 60mm; meaning it would be excellent for portrait images. This gave me a lot of thoughts to my own work; I will definitely been renting these lenses out for my own shoots especially the advertising campaigns where the product and detailing of the makeup is important. Though expensive the 60mm and 100mm lenses are excellent quality; the difference between more luxury lenses is the fact they are made from mental not plastic like standard lenses.

After setting up all the equipment correctly we synced the camera to the studio computers and started working with both; I'd never used the computer before in the studio before but found it easy to use and great for close detail images instead of using the preview on the camera, the shots were better to analyse. 

The 100mm lense

Advanced Plaiting

Health and Safety

• Clean washed hands must always be the first thing before touching client
• Hair is tied back at all times
• Model should be wearing a apron or protected clothing
• Must check whether there is any contraindications such as sickness or infection

Equipment needed

• Paddle Brush
• Hair ties

The 5 strand Plait 

• Separate the hair into 5 equal sections at the back of the head leaving part of the front of the hair free for the 8 strand plait after completing the 5 strand.
• start of crossing three strands like in standard plait. Start the plait of on one side of the five sections.
• cross the section at the side of the head over the strand next to it and under the middle strand; hold the two sections of hair leaving the single strand hanging.
• work the rest of the hair into the plait; working the two sections from the other side of the head into the strand that was hanging remembering that at every time 3 strands should be on one side of the head being held and 2 in the other hand on the opposite hand. 
• Continue moving the side of the strand over the strand next to it and underneath again and again to get into routine. 
• To keep track of movements just think over under over under

The 8 strand plait 

• Section one side of the head into three sections
• starting of with a normal plait cross once and hold the two sections in each hand
• work the single strand into the original 5 strand plait in between the braid expanding the plait slightly to fit in the new piece of hair. 
• work the braid down against the original 5 strand plait. 

The plait can be finished to turn into a 13 strand plait too using same method. 

Waterfall Braid

• An extremely pretty braid that I was surprised was easy to achieve. Start of plaiting with three strands at the side of the head.
• working with your model ask then to hold the piece of hair that will be on its own after plaiting with a standard plait. 
• Work around the head asking your model to hold the hair away from their face.
• Can be worked around the head or just pinned to desired end.
• The hair thats been left out should now be released and fall neatly down the hair.

Plaiting into the braid.

• With the strands left out of the braid work these now into a ladder plait. 
• The tighter the hair the tighter the ladder will look. 

Chanel Catwalk

Chanel catwalk shows divide into two different types of collections from the ready to wear collections to the Couture shows Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter. Over the years these are interesting to watch from the changes in style's and trends that

Autumn/Winter 2012-2013 Ready to wear
The makeup for this catwalk show is bare natural skin that has probably been finished with a skin and body foundation; the main focus is the eyebrows that have been covered with jewelled designs.

This look is very simple but with the statement brows it really excels into a high fashion piece of work; the makeup works with the navy tones of the clothing that have been styled to be layered up.

The jackets and oversized coats create a comfy look for the season thats being promoted. The clothing doesn't give a feminine shape but with the use of the belt against the clear style of  androgynous clothing.

Autumn/Winter 2012-2013 Couture
This show was full of tweed suits and over sized boyfriend jackets. The colouring of the clothing is mainly grey tones to also suit the time of year.

The makeup of this show in a base sense is very similar being of that very neutral in its toning and application with the difference of having slightly flushed cheeks. I image I chose is very feminine with the V neckline.

The eye colour is a pastel navy blue colour with the thick eyeliner on the lid of the eyes. This colour does actually remind me of a show a few years later. I notice that Chanel does with a lot of blue tones


This look was designed by Peter Phillips after finding inspiration from a few key words Karl Lagerfeld gave him "Starting with 
luminous, shiny skin, by using Vitalumière foundation and avoiding powder (except for on the T-zone), I did a metallic 'shine' on the eyes - using a full cover layer of Illusion d'Ombre eye shadow. For this show I exclusively created a platinum shade which you can apply sheer, for a subtle luminous effect, or for a metallic result you can put a thick layer."



Spring/Summer 2013 Couture
The theme of this show was a gothic take on "A midsummer nights dream". Chanel really takes there shows to new levels with the seer technicality and set design for each show which I find amazing. The idea of the forest was a big theme with leaves, flowers and feathers everywhere.

On Vouge there has been a connection to Miss Havisham which I also saw when I was looking through images the styles of clothing some in which look bridal are a juxtaposed against the heavy eye makeup and placements in hair that make the show look more extreme and artistic.

Autumn/Winter 2013-14 Couture
The theme for this catwalk show was an incredible post apocalyptic futuristic theatre with the Chanel models seemingly coming out as shiny perfect futuristic women.

I think the makeup is amazing with the focus on the brow and strong pink blush extremely high on the cheekbones; the makeup makes me feel like I'm watching Rachael on blade runner with the high structured hair that is both modern but has connotations of the 1940's. The skin its self is light and pretty with some strobing around the eyes to accentuate the heavy brows which remind me strongly of Cara Delevingne and her famous heavy brows grace the Chanel catwalk many times.

The clothing though though also structured seems to feel romantic maybe from the palette of colours or maybe that trims and detailing on the clothing such as fraying.

This catwalk makeup is probably one of my favourites I've noticed Chanel do like to make the eye a huge focus on the catwalk which is something that I will definitely take note of.

Spring/Summer 2014 Ready to wear
This catwalk show had a huge element of Picasso inspiration when it came to the makeup on the models. Bright colouring with the black framing the eyes and brows. The use of wigs is also something thats interesting and great for shoots due to its multi use and simplicity. The cut of the wig is shaggy and simple; to represent a youthful show.

The clothing was colourful with some pieces looking like that were inspired by paint pallets. Some of the models were also carrying artists portfolios as well as Perspex bags.

An extremely fun catwalk show which shows how creative Chanel is. The link to the other shows in the patterning from the clothing with the structured jacket still being featured and the natural skin against extremely heavy eyes.

Autumn/Winter 2014-15 Ready to wear
On of my favourite sets by Chanel; the multi coloured bottles rising in high aisles between the models walking down the catwalk looked both impressive and awe inspiring. Some models were even holding shopping baskets make from Chanel chains.

The clothing for this show was seemingly more athletic in its inspiration featuring Chanel trainers and tracksuit bottoms made from leather. This clothing would never step foot in a gym but if you wanted to look high fashion active on the streets of whatever city your living in this is the collection for you.

The makeup for this campaign was flawless skin and a playful mix of bright eyeliner for the eyes such as green or blue. The hair is featured in a thick pony tail with intertwined materials in.





Autumn/Winter 2014-15  Couture
The simplicity of the makeup really stands out against the youthful complexions of the models; bare beautiful skin that is lightly covered. The eyes have a white metallic eyeshadow, the eyeliner is pretty with a soft flick.

The clothing for this catwalk seems very elegant and classic with  hats on models and high collars there was something innocent about the catwalk; I also noticed that the models shoes were flat which I found interesting as if Chanel was promoting comfortable fashion. The colour scheme of the show was very rich in its colouring with gold lace detailing on the clothing "The girls took to the catwalk with quiffs and caps on the back of their heads and short pantaloons, which even came worn under little short suits and coats – this was a couture riff on a Charles Dickens classic from start to finish" - Jessica Bumpus 

The hair itself was interesting because of the volumes at the front against the slick bun at the back sometimes covered by the headwear. The hair was like an extremely messy quiff that could be envisioned on a mischievous boy.

Spring/Summer 2015 Ready to wear
"Boulevard Chanel" was created for this show to represent a typical Parisian street. The show was set up so the models would either walk alone or in pairs or even threes to display true street style and an everyday that was envisioned by Karl Lagerfeld for his street style Chanel. The end of the show is my current background for this blog the beautiful and colourful Chanel protest that demonstrated "Make fashion not war" amongst other banners.

This show makeup wise was interesting due to there being a range of different looks for the models. The skin stayed the same and was bare and youthful but there were a range of different eye looks; multi coloured eyeshadow that went up to the brows to heavy eyeliner featured above and under the eyes; classic thick eyeliner or the most simple brushed brows and light mascara. Chanel definitely had a lot of fun with this superb show.

Autumn/Winter 2015-16 Couture
The slanted wigs are already an interesting look on the catwalk; its interesting how manipulated and cut the wig can achieve. The makeup in this Chanel Casino show sends me straight to some kind of asian location with the straight brow and flawless skin and strikingly harsh pink cheek that is in line with the wig.

I choose this show to feature because it is different to the other shows in the fact that the eyes are bare which is seemingly unlike Chanel. In fact it seems everywhere else except the eyes have been focused on for this show. Every model had a red lip

The clothing for the show was extremely elegant with the detailing on the jackets a large part of the show; leather collars to metallic beading were all over the jackets. The classic chanel jacket was created to made from a sheer material with the quilting still being featured. Heels though low were definitely featured in this show compared to the year before.

Spring/Summer 2016 Ready to Wear
Chanel Air was a huge show that I saw advertised; from there band of blue across the females models face that suited the strong blue colour theme. The eye colouring is blue which is a popular spring colour this season; a colour which Chanel regularly uses. Another interesting detail of the show is the thin silver band underneath the eye which adds a little sparkle to the face. The skin is bare and youthful.

The use of creating an airport set with a true sense of first class glamour was interesting to see on the run way. Unsurprisingly for Chanel the accessories were also in fitting with the Chanel Air theme from check in desks to strapping luggage handlers.

Spring/Summer 2016 Couture
The Grand Palais was transformed into a beautiful wooden house that finished with models standing in the square boxes situated in the house structure. The entire set was like a super modern wooden and grassy mix that felt relaxed with the extremely detailed clothing.

The makeup on the models felt like they had been transformed into dainty doll's with slick eyeliner insinuating larger eyes and bare skin with brushed brows. Bun's were placed on the hair as well








http://www.vogue.co.uk/brand/chanel the catalog of imagery and show dates and themes
Beautiful looks from the Chanel catwalks.

The history of Chanel and why I chose Chanel

Choosing Chanel as my Brand of choice for this particular project was rather simple; why ? Chanel is extremely diverse I can show case the Chanel woman or create a artist editorial piece of work and yet it would still represent Chanel. Just look at recent catwalk shows for spring/summer based around the theme of Chanel Airlines. The unmissable Chanel detailing within the clothing such as the classic jacket completely juxtaposed against a Pris (Blade Runner) type stripe across the eyes. http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/2015/10/06/chanel-karl-lagerfeld-catwalk-paris-ss16-airport_n_8249974.html

In more recent shows such as The January 2016 Couture SS16 show which featured a Eco wooden house which featured a finale of Models standing in a make shift stack in the square construction the makeup for a extreme eyeliner against perfect skin and beautiful tailored pieces of clothing that resembled classic Chanel jackets that also show more modern times with the fittings being ballooned on the sleeves that look ill-fitting against the models silhouette. Though really unique in the style of show there are clear similarities within the structure of clothing and hair style to the perfection and placement of Makeup. Definitely something I take note of within my own Inspired work. 

The History of Chanel

Chanel started firstly in Paris, France in 1909 by the one and only Coco Chanel the forth runner in experimental woman's fashion at the time; Chanel cut the boundaries of woman wearing what they wanted from a pant suit to a ball gown her creations are timeless and still seen in inspired pieces from the creative director Karl Lagerfeld in the present. 

Coco Chanel was a woman who wasn't blessed in life she had lost her mother by the age of twelve and taken to an convent orphanage where she was extremely disciplined. During her time at there Chanel learnt to sew; in all Coco spent 6 years at the convent. Her life wasn't certainly given to her with a silver spoon. She worked and made big connections that helped the branding of Coco Chanel grow. 

Starting of designing hats for high class ladies and became a licensed hat maker in 1910. It wasn't until 3 years later that she opened a boutique and start introducing women's casual fashion onto the scene. Popularity grew with Coco as did the brand to the high profile fashion house that it now is. 

What makes Chanel as a huge fashion house not only for haute couture but also for luxury goods and perfume such as the iconic No.5 scent that has been on shelves since 1922 by Chanel and perfumer Ernest Beaux. Chanel herself has always held the number five is a certain high association from her childhood at a convent orphanage where she believed the number five to hold some kind of significant meaning from telling her daily prayer to even the petals on the roses in the abbey gardens. The number five was also the date in which Chanel would show her clothing collections on; so when the name came up there was a wide meaning to the name; The scent of Chanel remains as an iconic symbol in femininity. In recent years the perfume has been advertised by huge actresses and models that represent the brand. In most of the adds the focuses are shown as women balancing their careers and romances; The Chanel woman can have it all. 

 

On researching the brand I came across the inside Chanel page and found it extremely informative. Featured on the site were huge steps taken by the brand in a huge range of photos from the birth of Chanel 1883 to the present day. The series of images were an enjoyable look at how much has changed and how huge the fashion house has become from a girl that has very little to literally a fashion empire. Even though Chanel is over a hundred years old and developed with the modern age you can't help but notice how much of Coco Chanel's designs have imprinted on the brand.  

http://inside.chanel.com

Coco Chanel died on January 10th 1971 "May my legend prosper and thrive. I wish it a long and happy life!" 

Photography

The lesson we had was the first of many that my class have once every fortnight. The lessons are a great way to teach us more upon what we learnt in our first year of university photography lessons. In this lesson particularly we were looking at three different types of beauty lighting that we could then use for our own shoots for the project.

The lesson was factual and humorous the two hours flew by which is always a plus. We also went back to basics learning about Flash heads/beauty dishes and lighting stands all basic stuff.

Beauty Dish- the lighting can be quite artificial and is obviously from a studio due to the natural shadowing on the face not occurring.

Light box- A diffuser is on front soft box. The bigger the soft box the softer the light will become.

The bounce lighting
Very useful for boxes; point the light wrong way such as a white wall.

On a flash head the bulb is used in indication for where the flash would be going with the actual flash itself.

Using a flash metre in groups we were send to explore different readings from the cameras and distances; this is a great use of finding out about light and also experience for when we do our own shoots and the placements of where the flash metre should go next to the subject